The sheet cut and bent. I figured out a unique way to bend these sheets after spoiling a couple of these.
Sorry I dont have the pictures for complete journal as the process was on and off for atleast 3 months, sometimes I couldnt even touch it for weeks.
Top view...you might be wondering what are all those holes for. I started it keeping 2 ballasts in mind that were to be connected to 4 bulbs through 4 pairs of individual holders. But there was a change in plan(its a long story and thats one reason it got delayed), so these holes were made initially. Later I got 4 compact individual ballast and strip sets as they are much more convenient, easy to install and less wire clump stays visible.
Well, this is certainly an achievement for me, because I did this completely, except for cutting the wood, as it was teak(and not ply) it needed some lumber machinery to cut it exactly to specifications. And I must say I have learnt a lot of things and ofcourse patience in the process. For example, nailing, seems an easy job on the wall, it certainly isnt while working with wood, it requires precise blows of consistent strength to move straight down through the wood.
Though the whole process took much time, gave some frustration at times, pain(cuts and bruises as this is my first attempt to carpentry), a tetanus injection , etc but was indeed fun and thrill and at the end gave me a sense of accomplishment and sheer satisfaction.
I have done another very similar fixture for my 2g nano tank, I'll post it sometime tomorrow.
Thanks for dropping by and do share your views.
Last edited by Hamza on Thu Mar 11, 2010 9:19 am; edited 2 times in total
Joined: Aug 19, 2005 Posts: 4895 Location: Mathura, UP
Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 4:02 pm Post subject: Re: My Crude 72w Light Fixture
You will also need some way to cool down this canopy, the heat generated by these tubes, chokes would be significant.
How are you going to lift it, the tin canopy will get quiet hot.
You can cut hole on one side of hood to install a fan to cood it down.
Joined: Feb 24, 2007 Posts: 4066 Location: Miyapur, Hyderabad
Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 4:26 pm Post subject: Re: My Crude 72w Light Fixture
Neat Job Hamza. Congrats. I used these kind of sheet before and still using it as a very good reflector medium.
Now to add on, why did you use those complete fixture of T8 inside the reflector. You are loosing lots of reflecting surface area.I would suggest you to fix the tubes directly on the reflector keeping 1" gap inbetween the metal and tube. And fix the ckokes outside the reflector. It will help removing clutter from inside and will keep the system much cooler.
Get 2 smallest size CPU fan and install them at both side. One will suck the air from outside where as other on will blow the hot air out of the reflector.
Joined: May 29, 2007 Posts: 2181 Location: Hyderabad
Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2010 3:29 am Post subject: Re: My Crude 72w Light Fixture
Thank you all for your valuable comments and time.
@scorpio...this is a partial hood and will stay 3-4" above water level and it already had atleast a dozen holes on the top.
@Rohan...nah, paint will spoil the beauty of wood.
@Sandeep, tirth and raushy...
But seriously do I need one specifically for hood? I used to have very same t8 (with ballast inside) along with 3 CFLs inside a narrow tall useless tin hood placed just an inch water for atleast past 6 months, that all was working fine, heat is generated, but I dont think it'll have any drastic effect on tank temperature. neither the evaporation, yes the strip might get rusty, but that is inevitable even if air is blown across. In some 3-4 years I'll have to replace the strips or repaint them...hehe
The hood is 4 sides wood and just the top is GI part a bit complicated construction.
Anyhow between the tank and hood I'll have 3-4 fans installed blowing air parallel to water surface, I' think this should take care of heat produced by the lights. And secondly I dont think these electronic ballasts will produce as much heat as regular copper ballasts.
This is again a partial hood and will be kept about 3-4" above waterlevel with fans between the hood and tank.
@Tirth...I had the idea of keeping the ballasts at the top, you can see a lot of holes there which were for same purpose. But for a lot many reasons like convenience, safety, simplicity,etc I have resorted to these strips with ballasts. Though some light gets wasted this way, its a bit of compromise.
@Saad...hmmm with my pace nearly a fishroom(your huge rack) will take a year long to complete, not to forget I have to travel through a thick jungle of traffic about 7miles for reaching you
@Charlie...Its completed already, the ballasts are inside the hood beneath those bulbs. Nice suggestion there, I'll either coat it or leave it as it is to match most of my crude drawing room furniture which is unpainted and uncoated.
I have ordered a similar wooden rack for two tanks(space constraints) with acacia wood(I cant afford so much teak for a fish rack), even that will be left uncoated most probably.
A neat and clean work....got a good piece of idea.Thanks for the worthy thread.....cheers
Your welcome. Thanks for dropping by...
Update - my similar crude rack is ready. I just need to smooth it a bit and give it a layer of oil coat.
The planted tank(25-30g) will occupy the middle shelf and another 50g non-planted tank will sit on the top.
My new tank, lights, pressurized CO2 and every thing is ready except a cooling system
So I cant wait any longer and I have spent too much already, was thinking of not adding any fishes for the whole summer and manage the temperature by frozen bottles. Well this is a completely different issue, will start a new thread for this journal.
Note that this stand was done by a carpenter, not me, unlike the hood.
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