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http://indianaquariumhobbyist.com/community/ :: View topic - Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & turf
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Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & turf
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nanomania
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 11:05 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 the  only  problem  with  UAS  is  everytime  for  cleaning,  u  need  to  place  hands  inside  the  tank,  removing  and  placing  the  screen  back  is  loads  of  work  plus  the  sound  of  air  bubbles  is  annoying.  why  dont  you  make  nano  ATS  for  like  1  cube  per  day?
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nanomania
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:59 pm Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 since  i  have  no  option  but  to  go  for  uas,  here  is  the  airflow  test  video...
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myrg9FsFdaU
 
 Here  is  3x1w  led  660nm
 
 
 
 
 Screen  size  is  5"x4"
 
 
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harsh
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:24 pm Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 Wasn't  this  originally  a  reef  thing  ?  
 Would  result  in  co2  loss,  wouldn't  it.
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SantaMonica
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 9:34 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 Air  Pump  Recommendations  for  UAS®  upflow  algae  scrubbers®.  Having  bought  and  tried  all  of  these,  here  are  the  best  ones:
 
 
 Flow  (highest  to  lowest):
 
 Coralife  Super  Luft...  TONS  of  flow  for  multiple  outlets  or  multiple  scrubbers
 Tetra  Whisper  300...  High  flow  if  both  outlets  are  combined  into  one
 JW  Aquatic  Fusion  700...  High  flow  if  both  outlets  are  combined  into  one
 Tetra  Whisper  150...  Good  flow  for  one  outlet
 Coralife  Luft  (regular)...  Good  flow  for  one  outlet
 
 
 Noise  (most  to  least):
 
 Coralife  Super  Luft...  (Loud;  vibrates)
 Coralife  Luft  (regular)...  (Vibrates)
 JW  Aquatic  Fusion  700...  Slight  vibration
 Tetra  Whisper  300...  Silent
 Tetra  Whisper  150...  Silent
 
 
 Size:  (big  to  small):
 
 Tetra  Whisper  300...  Large
 JW  Aquatic  Fusion  700...  Medium
 Coralife  Super  Luft...  Medium
 Tetra  Whisper  150...  Medium
 Coralife  Luft  (regular)...  Small
 
 
 Cost  (most  to  least):
 
 Coralife  Super  Luft
 Coralife  Luft  (regular)
 Tetra  Whisper  300
 Tetra  Whisper  150
 JW  Aquatic  Fusion  700
 
 Overall  winner  for  a  single  UAS  scrubber  used  at  home:  JW  Aquatic  Fusion  700  (also  is  the  only  one  with  adjustable  flow)
 Overall  winner  for  multiple  UAS  scrubbers  if  noise  if  ok:  Coralife  Super  Luft
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 9:50 pm Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 How  to  build  a  floating  surface  scrubber:
 
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 5:36 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 First  13  days  of  growth  in  a  floating  surface  scrubber.  This  one  used  four  LEDs  of  3  watts  
 
 each,  660nm  (red),  but  you  could  also  use  a  CFL  bulb...
 
 http://www.algaescrubber.net/Surf2-first-harvest-13-days  collage-plain.jpg
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2013 9:19 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 More  harvests  from  the  floating  surface  scrubber:
 http://youtu.be/miWb4R8ajXw
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:27 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 Phosphate  flow  out  of  rocks
 
 Many  people,  when  they  get  their  scrubber  running  for  the  first  time,  get  worried  when  more  (not  less)  algae  starts  to  grow  on  their  rocks.  It  seems  really  strange,  especially  when  nitrate  and  phosphate  have  gone  lower  than  before.  What  is  happening  is  that  phosphate  is  coming  out  of  the  rocks.  Remember,  phosphate  is  invisible,  so  you  can  only  see  the  effects  of  it,  and  it  always  "flows"  from  higher  concentrations  to  lower  concentrations  (just  like  heat  does).  
 
 Example:  If  your  room  is  warm,  and  you  put  a  cold  object  on  the  floor,  heat  from  the  air  in  the  room  will  "flow"  into  the  object  until  the  object  and  the  air  are  the  same  temperature.  Example  2:  If  you  put  a  hot  object  on  the  floor,  heat  will  "flow"  out  of  the  object  and  go  into  the  air  in  the  room,  again,  until  the  air  and  the  object  are  the  same  temperature.  Now  suppose  you  open  your  windows  (in  the  winter).  The  warm  air  in  your  room  will  go  out  the  windows,  and  it  will  get  colder  in  the  room.  The  object  on  the  floor  is  now  warmer  than  the  air,  so  heat  will  flow  out  of  the  object  and  into  the  air,  and  then  out  the  window.
 
 Think  of  phosphate  as  the  heat,  and  your  rocks  as  the  object,  and  your  windows  as  the  scrubber.  As  the  scrubber  pulls  phosphate  out  of  the  water,  the  phosphate  level  in  the  water  drops.  Now,  since  the  phosphate  level  in  the  water  is  lower  than  the  phosphate  level  in  the  rocks,  phosphate  flows  from  the  rocks  into  the  water,  and  then  from  the  water  into  the  scrubber.  This  continues  until  the  phosphate  levels  in  the  rocks  and  water  are  level  again.  And  remember,  you  can't  see  this  invisible  flow.
 
 This  flow  causes  an  interesting  thing  to  happen.  As  the  phosphate  comes  out  of  the  rocks,  it  then  becomes  available  to  feed  algae  as  soon  as  the  phosphate  reaches  the  surface  of  the  rocks  where  there  is  light.  So,  since  the  surface  of  the  rocks  is  rough  and  has  light,  it  starts  growing  MORE  algae  there  (not  less)  as  the  phosphate  comes  out  of  the  rocks.  This  is  a  pretty  amazing  thing  to  see  for  the  first  time,  because  if  you  did  not  know  what  was  happening  you  would  probably  think  that  the  algae  in  the  scrubber  was  leaking  out  and  attaching  to  your  rocks.  Here  are  the  signs  of  phosphate  coming  out  of  the  rocks:  
 
 1.  The  rocks  are  older,  and  have  slowly  developed  algae  problems  in  the  past  year.
 
 2.  The  scrubber  is  new,  maybe  only  a  few  months  old,  and  has  recently  started  to  grow  well.
 
 3.  Nitrate  and  phosphate  measurements  in  the  water  are  low,  usually  the  lowest  they  have  been  in  a  long  time.
 
 4.  Green  hair  algae  (not  brown)  on  the  rocks  has  increased  in  certain  spots,  usually  on  corners  and  protrusions  at  the  top.
 
 5.  The  glass  has  not  needed  cleaning  as  much.
 
 
 Since  skimmers,  filter  socks,  etc  don't  remove  any  nitrate  and  phosphate,  and  waterchanges  and  macro's  in  a  fuge  don't  remove  much,  most  people  have  never  seen  the  effects  of  large  amounts  of  phosphate  coming  out  of  the  rocks  quickly.  But  sure  enough,  it  does.  How  long  does  it  continue?  For  2  months  to  a  year,  depending  on  how  much  phosphate  is  in  the  rocks,  how  strong  your  scrubber  is,  and  how  many  other  phosphate-removing  filters  you  have  (GFO,  carbon  dosing,  etc).  But  one  day  you  will  see  patches  of  white  rock  that  were  covered  in  green  hair  the  day  before;  this  is  a  sure  sign  that  the  algae  are  losing  their  phosphate  supply  from  the  rocks  and  can  no  longer  hold  on.  Now  it's  just  a  matter  of  days  before  the  rocks  are  clear.
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SantaMonica
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:22 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 Advanced  Aquarist  Feature  Article  for  December  2013:  Coral  Feeding:  An  Overview
 http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/12/aafeature  
 
 
 The  picture  in  the  article  shows  that  in  the  1000  litre  test  tank:
 
    98%  of  the  food  particles  go  to  the  skimmer  when  there  are  2  coral  colonies
    71%  of  the  food  particles  go  to  the  skimmer  when  there  are  40  coral  colonies
    92%  of  the  food  particles  go  to  the  skimmer  when  there  are  2  coral  colonies,  when  skimming  is  cut  in  half
    55%  of  the  food  particles  go  to  the  skimmer  when  there  are  40  coral  colonies,  when  skimming  is  cut  in  half
 
 
 "This  trade-off  between  food  availability  and  water  quality  can  be  circumvented  by  using  plankton-saving  filtration  systems,  which  include  [...]  algal  turf  scrubbers"  
 
 "Corals  are  able  to  feed  on  a  wide  range  of  particulate  organic  matter,  which  includes  live  organisms  and  their  residues  and  excrements  (detritus)."
 
 "...bacteria  [...]  can  be  a  major  source  of  nitrogen."
   
 "...when  dry  fish  feeds  or  phytoplankton  cultures  are  added  to  an  aquarium,  a  part  of  this  quickly  ends  up  in  the  collection  cup  of  the  skimmer.
 
 "...mechanical  filters  (which  can  include  biofilters  and  sand  filters)  result  in  a  significant  waste  of  food."
 
 "Detritus  is  a  collective  term  for  organic  particles  that  arise  from  faeces,  leftover  food  and  decaying  organisms.  Detrital  matter  is  common  on  coral  reefs  and  in  the  aquarium,  and  slowly  settles  on  the  bottom  as  sediment.  This  sediment  contains  bacteria,  protozoa,  microscopic  invertebrates,  microalgae  and  organic  material.  These  sedimentary  sources  can  all  serve  as  coral  nutrients  when  suspended,  especially  for  species  growing  in  turbid  waters.  Experiments  have  revealed  that  many  scleractinian  corals  can  ingest  and  assimilate  detritus  which  is  trapped  in  coral  mucus.  Although  stony  corals  may  ingest  detritus  when  it  is  available,  several  gorgonians  have  been  found  to  primarily  feed  on  suspended  detritus."
 
 "Dissolved  organic  matter  (DOM)  is  an  important  food  source  for  many  corals.  [...]  scleractinian  corals  take  up  dissolved  glucose  from  the  water.  More  ecologically  relevant,  corals  can  also  absorb  amino  acids  and  urea  from  the  seawater"
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 8:30 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 Growth  pics  you  can  expect  in  SW:
 
 
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 12:42 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 Great  video  showing  a  basic  upflow  scrubber,  similar  to  a  Hang-On-Glass  (tm)...
 
             
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:53 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 Nutrient  Export
 
 What  do  all  algae  (and  cyano  too)  need  to  survive?  Nutrients.  What  are  nutrients?  Ammonia/ammonium,  nitrite,  nitrate,  phosphate  and  urea  are  the  major  ones.  Which  ones  cause  most  of  the  algae  in  your  tank?  These  same  ones.  Why  can't  you  just  remove  these  nutrients  and  eliminate  all  the  algae  in  your  tank?  Because  these  nutrients  are  the  result  of  the  animals  you  keep.
 
 So  how  do  your  animals  "make"  these  nutrients?  Well  a  large  part  the  nutrients  come  from  pee  (urea).  Pee  is  very  high  in  urea  and  ammonia,  and  these  are  a  favorite  food  of  algae  and  some  bacteria.  This  is  why  your  glass  will  always  need  cleaning;  because  the  pee  hits  the  glass  before  anything  else,  and  algae  on  the  glass  consume  the  ammonia  and  urea  immediately  (using  photosynthesis)  and  grow  more.  In  the  ocean  and  lakes,  phytoplankton  consume  the  ammonia  and  urea  in  open  water,  and  seaweed  consume  it  in  shallow  areas,  but  in  a  tank  you  don't  have  enough  space  or  water  volume  for  this,  and,  your  other  filters  or  animals  often  remove  or  kill  the  phytoplankton  or  seaweed  anyway.  So,  the  nutrients  stay  in  your  tank.
 
 Then  the  ammonia/ammonium  hits  your  rocks,  and  the  periphyton  on  them  consumes  more  ammonia  and  urea.  Periphyton  is  both  algae  and  animals,  and  is  the  reason  your  rocks  change  color  after  a  few  weeks.  Then  the  ammonia  goes  inside  the  rock,  or  hits  your  sand,  and  bacteria  there  convert  it  into  nitrite  and  nitrate.  However,  the  nutrients  are  still  in  your  tank.
 
 Also  let's  not  forget  phosphate,  which  comes  from  solid  organic  food  particles.  When  these  particles  are  eaten  by  microbes  and  clean  up  crew,  the  organic  phosphorus  in  them  is  converted  into  phosphate.  However,  the  nutrients  are  still  in  your  tank.
 
 So  whenever  you  have  algae  "problems",  you  simply  have  not  exported  enough  nutrients  compared  to  how  much  you  have  been  feeding  (note:  live  rock  can  absorb  phosphate  for  up  to  a  year,  making  it  seem  like  there  was  never  a  problem.  Then,  there  is  a  problem).  
 
 So  just  increase  your  nutrient  exports.  You  could  also  reduce  feeding,  and  this  has  the  same  effect,  but  it's  certainly  not  fun  when  you  want  to  feed  your  animals   Smile
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SantaMonica
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 6:07 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 From  new  to  green,  in  3  cleanings  and  2  LEDs...
 
 
             
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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 1:09 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 What  is  Periphyton?
 
 Periphyton  is  what  turns  your  rocks  different  colors.  You  know...  the  white  rocks  you  started  with  in  SW,  or  the  grey  rocks  (or  brown  wood)  you  started  with  in  FW.  After  several  months  or  years,  the  rocks  become  a  variety  of  different  colors  and  textures.  Why?  Because  the  periphyton  that  has  grown  on  it  is  a  mix  of  different  living  things,  of  different  colors,  and  thicknesses.  And  the  important  part  is:  It  is  LIVING.
 
 That's  right:  The  colored  stuff  that  has  coated  your  rocks  is  all  living  organisms.  Sponges,  microbes,  algae,  cyano,  biofilms,  and  of  course  coralline.  After  all,  "peri"  means  "around  the  outside",  and  "phyto"  means  "plant".  Ever  slipped  in  a  slippery  puddle?  That's  probably  periphyton  that  made  it  slippery.  It's  a  very  thin  coating  on  the  rocks,  sometimes  paper  thin.
 
 There  is  a  lot  of  photosynthetic  organisms  in  periphyton,  and  this  of  course  means  that  they  need  light;  but  they  need  nutrients  too  (ammonia,  nitrate,  phosphate).  And  as  you  might  figure,  they  will  be  on  the  lighted  portions  of  the  rocks.  And  they  will  grow  to  intercept  food  particles  in  the  water,  based  on  the  water  flow.  Just  think  about  how  sponges  orient  their  holes  for  water  flow;  the  micro  sponges  in  periphyton  do  it  too  but  on  a  tiny  scale.  
 
 What  about  under  the  rocks,  in  the  dark  areas?  Well  these  periphyton  don't  get  light,  so  they  are  primarily  filter  feeders.  So  they  REALLY  grow  and  position  themselves  to  be  able  to  intercept  food  particles.  And  they  don't  really  need  to  fight  off  algae,  because  algae  does  not  grow  in  the  dark,  so  they  have  no  need  for  anti-algae  tactics  like  plants  in  the  light  do.
 
 Reef  studies  have  show  that  at  certain  depths,  more  of  the  filtering  of  the  water  comes  from  periphyton  and  benthic  algae  than  comes  from  the  phytoplankton  which  filters  the  deeper  water.  And  in  streams,  almost  all  the  filtering  is  done  by  the  periphyton.  So,  what  you  have  in  rocks  that  are  "mature"  or  "established"  is  a  well-developed  layer  of  periphyton;  and  all  the  things  that  comes  from  it.
 
 This  is  why  mandarin  fish  can  eat  directly  off  the  rocks  of  an  "established"  tank  (tons  of  pods  grow  in  the  periphyton),  but  not  off  the  rocks  of  a  new  tank.  Or  why  some  animals  can  lay  their  eggs  on  established  rocks,  but  not  new  ones.  Or  why  established  tanks  seem  to  "yo-yo"  less  than  new  ones.  Even  tangs  can  eat  periphyton  directly  when  it's  thick  enough.  Yes  periphyton  can  also  develop  on  the  sand,  but  since  the  sand  is  moved  around  so  much,  the  periphyton  does  not  get  thick  like  it  does  on  rocks.  So  thick  periphyton  on  long  established  rocks  is  your  friend.  And  totally  natural  too.  Keep  in  mind  though,  we  are  not  talking  about  nuisance  algae  on  the  rocks;  we  are  only  referring  to  the  very-thin  layer  of  coloring  that  coats  the  rocks.
 
 But  what  happens  when  you  "scrape  the  stuff  off  your  rocks"?  Well  you  remove  some  of  the  periphyton,  which  means  you  remove  some  of  your  natural  filter  and  food  producer.  What  if  you  take  the  rocks  out  and  scrub  them?  Well  now  you  not  only  remove  more  of  your  natural  filter  and  food  producer,  but  the  air  is  going  to  kill  even  more  of  the  microscopic  sponges  in  it.  And  what  if  you  bleach  them?  Well,  goodbye  all  filtering  and  food  producing  for  another  year.  It's  an  instant  reduction  of  the  natural  filtering  that  the  periphyton  was  providing.  
 
 However,  what  if  you  just  re-arrange  the  rocks?  Well,  some  of  the  periphyton  that  was  in  the  light,  now  will  be  in  the  dark;  so  that  part  will  die.  And  some  of  the  periphyton  that  was  in  the  dark  will  now  be  in  the  light,  so  it  will  not  be  able  to  out-compete  with  the  photosynthetic  growth  and  will  be  covered  over  and  die  too.  And  even  if  the  light  stays  the  same,  the  direction  and  amount  of  water  flow  (and  food  particles)  will  change;  sponges  that  were  oriented  to  get  food  particles  from  one  directly  will  now  starve.  So  since  the  light  and  food  supply  is  cut  off,  the  filtering  that  the  periphyton  was  providing  stops  almost  immediately  from  just  re-arranging.
 
 Starvation  takes  a  little  longer  however.  The  organisms  won't  die  immediately  since  they  have  some  energy  saved  up;  instead,  they  will  wither  away  over  a  period  of  weeks.  So  on  top  of  the  instant  reduction  in  filtering,  you  get  a  somewhat  stretched-out  period  of  nutrients  going  back  into  the  water.  And  after  all  this,  it  takes  another  long  period  of  time  for  the  periphyton  to  build  up  to  the  levels  it  was  at.  Even  changing  the  direction  of  a  powerhead  will  affect  the  food  particle  supply  in  the  area  it  used  to  be  pointed  at.
 
 So  the  recommendation  is  to  try  to  keep  everything  the  same.  Pick  your  lighting,  flow,  layout,  and  try  to  never  move  or  change  anything.  It's  a  different  way  of  thinking,  but  you'll  have  a  stronger  natural  filter  and  food  producer  because  of  it.
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SantaMonica
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 7:00 am Post subject: Re: Lowest cost way to eliminate green hair, bubble & tu Reply with quote

 Shade  cloth:
 
 All  new  scrubbers  which  use  white  growth  surfaces  should  have  a  black  cloth  placed  over  the  LEDs  for  the  first  week  or  two.  Because  the  all-white  interior  reflects  so  much  light,  when  it  is  new  the  light  levels  are  way  above  the  highest  amount  that  can  grow  anything.  Once  growth  starts,  the  white  surfaces  get  covered  with  growth  and  the  total  light  levels  drop,  and  the  cloth  can  be  removed.  Any  cloth,  stocking,  or  t-shirt  can  work;  just  don't  melt  the  cloth  with  hot  LEDs   :)
 
 This  covering  of  the  lights  can  be  done  by  anyone,  on  any  scrubber,  even  waterfalls.  Waterfalls  use  plastic  canvas  which  has  more  holes  than  material,  and  they  are  not  in  white  compartments,  so  the  light  levels  when  new  are  not  that  high.  But  it  still  might  help  if  a  new  screen  stays  completely  empty  or  had  bald  spots.
 
 The  reason  for  a  white  colors,  of  course,  is  too  allow  more  light  to  reach  the  base  of  the  growth  that  does  the  attaching  to  the  surfaces.  As  the  growth  gets  thicker,  the  bottom  layers  will  almost  be  in  darkness,  so  the  white  surface  doubles  the  light  there  by  reflecting  instead  of  absorbing  the  light.
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