Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 10:22 am Post subject: Re: WTB Siamese Algae Eater
Thanks for the reply. I have less of an algae as compared to before, but the BBA still persists.
The cause I am not very sure, if it is water, then unfortunately for me, I can't fix it. So, somehow, I have to make sure they get eaten up when they are still edible for the fishes. I have one Siamese and one Pelco, they are pretty good at algae cleaning, however they wont touch the old grown ones. Now my only option is to remove the plants that have them, and make sure I have enough stock of Siamese to prevent its re-occurance. I have them even on my gravel.
I dont want to give any kind of shock treatment because it wont fix the long term problem, and the algae doesnt harm the fishes anyway. My option, is to have some kind of symbiotic relationship in tank to keep things in balance.
Anyways, next month, I am going for the tank makeover, but I need to prepared this time. Gravel and filter sponges I will be re-using because of huge colony of bacteria they have ! I will be going for Walstad makeup as I am into completely balanced ecology in the tank, with very few/none external support like CO2.
Tank spec: 3ftx1x1.5
Lights: Total 66w , cool daylight. Diffused sunlight as it is next to window
Filter: Normal underwater filter
Fish stock: Very low
Try to increase CO2 dosing and observe for a few weeks. The BBA should go off on it's own.
I am convinced to a large extent that CO2 deficiency = algae.
Tom Barr said this a few years ago, and almost everytime I have an algae outbreak now, it's CO2 that's the culprit.
I have pressurised CO2 being diffused by an internal reactor. I also have very hard water. Now any increase in the CO2 doen't get dissolved, but starts accumulating in the reactor.
Is there a limit to how much CO2 I can pump in my water?
I am estimating between 15 and 18 ppm CO2 in the tank atm.
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 11:03 am Post subject: Re: WTB Siamese Algae Eater
Yes , you are right Madan. Without sufficient CO2, algae out-competes plants. However, I do not use external CO2 generator. I guess, my option should be to have more bacteria colonies After its their job to make Co2 !
Joined: Jun 29, 2003 Posts: 7087 Location: Bengaluru, India
Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 11:20 am Post subject: Re: WTB Siamese Algae Eater
There are test kits and CO2 checkers which are expensive and not available easily.
You can check your Kh and pH and derive the CO2 content from a table. It's on IAH somewhere.
High CO2 content will not harm fish that are already there in the aquarium upto a certain extent (35 ppm dissolved CO2). New fish should be added to this aquarium at a water change. You will not have trouble with algaewhen your CO2 gets to 20-30 ppm at a pH of 7.0
At a pH above 7.5 dissolved CO2 is not available as CO2 to plants but as HCO3-, assimilation of which is energy intensive.
High hardness is High pH invariably to start with, now if you reduce your pH by addition of CO2 to about 7.0 you are better off. But the CO2 concentration may get high, depending on the original pH you started with. Kh-pH relationship.
That is why ADA Amazonia and Seachem Onyx are substrates that acidify the water and bring down the pH to 6.5 so that plants utilise minimum energy for carbon assimilation and hence grow fast thereby out competing Algae for nutrients in the water column.
These substrates kind off even out high pH water that some aquarists start with, and try to provide a level playing field.
Carbon assimilation from CO2 places the least demand on plants, so they do not need to synthesise other energy intensive enzymes that are required to utilise HCO3-.
If you are getting algae with ADA or Seachem substrates, up the CO2 levels.
This is the culprit.
You'll need to increase the water flow/agitation in the reactor for for all the CO2 to dissolve, another point in a reactor just as high concentration of one gas CO2 dissolves in water which has a lower concentration, some amount of other gases O2 in water for example will diffuse back to the gasesous environment which is deficient in O2.
In my tanks I find an accumulation of gas by evening in the reactor, but in the morning there is no accumulation of gas in the reactor. At night as O2 levels drop in the water the O2 in the reactor dissolves back into the water.
Have you observed this?
After all this if you still have trouble, reduce your lighting + dosing and go for a slow growth tank.
And now the worst piece of information - BBA loves CO2, that's why you see it growing ON the return pipe from your reactor, but if it get's out competed for other nutrients then it will barely be visible anywhere else in your aquarium.
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