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http://indianaquariumhobbyist.com/community/ :: View topic - Cement tank with one side glass
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Cement tank with one side glass
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paul
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 1:03 pm Post subject: Cement tank with one side glass Reply with quote

 Hi,
 
 Wanted  to  make  a  cement  tank  with  front  side  glass.It  is  outside  house    but  under  permanent  shade  two  feet  above  the  floor  level.Size:8/2/2.  Is  12mm  OK?  Do  I  need  to  take  care  something  on  fixing  the  glass  with  cement?  I  there  any  alternative  method  to  avoid  cement  contact  with  glass?  Any  other  suggestions?
 
 thanks
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murthy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 9:15 pm Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Very Happy  hey  paul!
           12  mm  glass  seems  to  be  ok  for  the  dimensions  you  mention(the  glass  will  need  to  be  braced  along  the  upper  edge).I  am  not  sure  about  a  cement  tank  though,as  I  have  no  first  hand  info  on  that.Check  out  the  article  on  plywood  tanks,by  Madan.It  could  be  an  alternative  to  cement.Whatever  the  case,I  would  strongly  advice  the  use  of  sealing  the  glass  along  its  perimeter  with  silicon  even  after  it  is  attached  to  cement.If  i'm  not  wrong  freshly  set  cement  also  tends  to  rise  the  pH  of  your  water  considerably...so  you  will  have  to  wait  for  quit  some  time  before  you  can  have  fish  in  it.(how  long?dunno...)
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beta
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:54 pm Post subject:  Reply with quote

 When  I  built  my  pond,  I  filled  it  with  water  and  added  potassium  Permangate  and  left  it  to  stand  for  a  week.  This  seemed  to  help  as  I  didnt  have  casualties  after  I  introduced  the  fishes.
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nytyn
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 11:10 pm Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Just  got  some  tanks  done  at  home...
 
 I  would  suggest  using  quick  setting  cement,  that  they  use  for  the  round  readymade  cement  tanks/  concrete  slabs  and  stuff,  for  the  topmost  layer.
 
 Use  it  for  finishing  the  tank.  You  need  to  make  sure  the  person  working  with  this  is  well  versed  with  the  quick  setting  cement.  It  sets  very  fast.
 
 The  advantage  is  that  it  cures  fast  too.  You  need  to  sprinkle  water  thrice  a  day,  for  the  first  3  days.  The  wetting/drying  action  cures  the  tank  fast[3  days  MAX].  Then  you  are  ready  to  pour  water.
 
 Fill  water,  empty  after  24  hours.  Repeat.
 
 Then  you  are  ready  to  introduce  fish.  This  worked  for  me.
 
 My  tanks  were  concrete  slabs  joined  together  using  quick  setting  cement.  Two  tanks  were  6  X  2  X  2,  and  one  4  X  2  X  2.
 
 TTFN!
 
 HTH
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ravi
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 6:33 am Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Hi,
 
 Don't  forget  the  water  proofing  compounds.
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Deepak_Brid
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 9:23 am Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Hi,
               One  can  also  create  tables  for  aquascaping.  One  will  require  less  substrate  to  get  that  height  required  for  aquascape.  It's  easier  to  maintain  too,  you  don't  need  to  disturb  plants  at  other  levels  when  doing  a  maintenance  activity;  works  much  like  potted  plants.
 
               You  could  also  have  backdrop  constructed  on  the  rear  wall.
 
               Before  doing  so  please  make  sure,  that  the  platform  below  will  sustain  this  weight.
 
 Regards,
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paul
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 9:55 pm Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Thanks...
 
 I  have  a  change  in  the  plan...instead  of  cement  inside  the  tank  I  am  planning  for  Cudappa  stone....it  is  cheap....easy  to  finish  the  work...and  no  curing....(4x2  cudappas  can  be  easily  transported  and  can  be  joined  with  cement)hope  there  wont  be  any  rise  in  pH  with  Cudappa.
 
 I  have  gone  through  Madan's  article(Already  had  a  word  with  him  on  this.),  but  with  cudappa  and  cement  hope  it  will  workout  even  cheaper.
 
 Planning  to  start  the  work  in  a  week  or  two.Will  update    once  I  start.
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nag
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 11:24 pm Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Hi  Paul:
 
 Welcome  aboard...Good  luck  on  your  project!
 Bye,
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zap2jai
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 8:37 am Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Could  anyone  suggest  me  the  cost  of  the  tank  of  4*2*2  made  from  the  cuddappah  stone  and  is  a  heater  necessary  as  the  cuddappah  stone  tends  to  get  too  cool  once  it  is  filled  with  water.  Has  anybody  done  this  before,  and  could  they  pls  share  their  ideas.
 Mr.  Paul  wrote:
 I  have  gone  through  Madan's  article(Already  had  a  word  with  him  on  this.),  but  with  cudappa  and  cement  hope  it  will  workout  even  cheaper.  
   Pls  tell  us  more  about  what  you  learnt!!!!
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paul
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2004 7:24 am Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Hi,
 
 I  am  new  to  this  cooling  effect  of  cudappah....so  not  sure  abot  the  necessity  of  heater.....i  too  have  to  think  abot  it  (thanks)....cudappah  is  available  for  12  to  14  Rs  /Sq  ft.  in  Bangalore.
 
 When  I  met  Madan  he  told  abot  the  plywood  tank....but  with  epoxy  coating  and  plywood  the  cost  is  high....am  not  sure  abot  the  expense  per  sq  ft  for  him  but  his  total  tank  expense  was  10,000  apx.  I  think  I  can  reduce  the  expense  by  2  to  3  thousand.
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Deepak_Brid
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 4:07 pm Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Hi  Paul,
 
 Kadappa  stone  has  CaCO3,  if  you  are  planning  for  a  planted  aquarium  with  CO2  injection  you  need  to  think  again.  Probably  you  can  look  at  coating  the  surface  ....I  don't  know  how  ...but  you  could  consult  someone  expert  in  the  field.
 
 
                                                 
Quote:                
cudappah  is  available  for  12  to  14  Rs  /Sq  ft.  in  Bangalore.  
                 

 
 
Pls.  make  sure  that  the  thickness  of  the  slab  is  enough  to  handle  the  pressure,  I  don't  know  how  thick  a  slab  you  will  get  at  this  rate.  I  think  you'll  need  at  least  30mm.  
 Stone  is  a  natural  substance  &  especially  when  kadappa  is  subjected  to  pressure  it  tends  to  crack  like  a  brittle  substance.
 
 As  for  fixing  the  glass,  you  coud  have  an  10mm  deep  groove  on  all  three  side,  apply  silicon  &  slide  the  glass  in...  but  you'll  not  be  able  to  align  the  glass  close  to  the  edge.
 
 Probably,  2"  of  space  from  the  kadappa  edge  &  then  make  the  groove.
 
 Just  few  thoughts.
 
 Regards,
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trevor
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2004 11:23 pm Post subject: One side Glass Reply with quote

 This  tank  will  end  up  quite  expensive  and  tragic  in  the  long  run.
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ravi
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2004 12:04 pm Post subject: Re: One side Glass Reply with quote

 Hi  Trevor,
 
 
                                                 
trevor  wrote:                
This  tank  will  end  up  quite  expensive  and  tragic  in  the  long  run.                

 
 Some  more  information  will  be  helpful.  Especially  on  why  it  will  be  tragic  in  the  long  run.
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murthy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2004 12:46 pm Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Exclamation  some  time  back,madan  had  mentioned  the  use  of  pond  liner....It  may  be  worth  a  talk  with  someone  on  SV  road...one  of  the  tarpaulin  sheet  dealers.May  be  its  possible  to  use  pond  liner  to  isolate  cement/cudappa  from  the  water?You  will  have  to  manage  to  stick  the  pond  liner  along  the  edges  of  the  glass  to  complete  the  seal.Then  there  is  fibreglass,but  expensive.There  was  some  thought  about  smearing  bitumen  on  the  surface...  Confused:    Confused:    Exclamation    Exclamation  .....but  all  this  sounds  more  and  more  complicated  with  lots  of  if's  and  but's.
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masmer78
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2005 10:03 pm Post subject:  Reply with quote

 Hi,
 
 Both  cement  and  cudappa  tanks  will  keep  on  leaching  calcium  and  shoot  the  ph  up.  If  you  are  going  to  make  a  tank  without  any  liner  or  epoxy,  it  will  be  great  if  you  cure  the  tank  until  the  ph  becomes  normal.
 
 Bitumen  is  not  a  bad  idea,  and  as  far  as  I  know,  it's  inert  and  doesnt  react.  Tanks  used  to  be  sealed  using  bitumen  mixtures  before  the  other  sealants  became  popular.  
 
 The  only  down-side  to  bitumen  is  that  it  tends  to  become  slimy  and  runny  in  warm/hot  conditions.
 
 If  cost-cutting  is  the  main  objective,  bitumen  is  probably  a  better  solution.  The  best  way  to  test  this  is  to  make  a  smaller  tank  and  run  it  for  a  couple  of  months.  if  it  works,  you  can  make  this  your  sea-monkey  tank  or  a  quarantine  tank  and  then  go  for  a  big  one  Smile
 
 Anyways,  what  ever  you  do,  please  keep  us  posted.  Depending  on  your  success,  many  other  hobbyists  will  probably  go  for  this  kind  of  set  up.
 
 Regards,
 
 Abhishek
 
 Note  :
 To  mask  the  ugly  black  bitumen,  you  can  always  grow  a  moss  wall.  That  will  make  you  tank  look  great.
 
 http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/plants/leong_Moss_Wall.html
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