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http://indianaquariumhobbyist.com/community/ :: View topic - LED Build Journal - Completed and some experiments
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LED Build Journal - Completed and some experiments
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Preeths
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 9:45 pm Post subject: LED Build Journal - Completed and some experiments Reply with quote

 Until  Now  I  had  used  the  10  W  flood  lights  with  some  moderate  success.  I  had  better  plant  growth  when  I  added  red  and  blue  flood  lights  in  addition  to  the  white  ones.  The  60cm/16  gallon  tank  was  running  fine  with  40  watts  of  LED  flood  lights  (2-  white,  1  red  and  1  blue  10w  each).  I  stopped  using  it  since  it  was  looking  unsightly  and  one  of  the  white  LED  driver  conked  out.  The  current  tanks  are  running  on  t8  tube  lights  and  PLL  lights.  I  was  not  satisfied  with  the  PLL’s  and  looking  at  Nidhi’s  Tank  made  me  decide  to  use  LED’s
 
 I  got  the  Osram  1  W  LED’s  off  E-bay.  The  search  led  me  to  get  the  25W  driver.  You  can  check  that  decisions  here  on  this  thread.
 LINK
 
 I  went  looking  for  thermal  grease/paste  on  SP  road,  I  also  found  1W  red  and  Blue  LED’s  and  got  10  each.
 Drivers  and  LED’s  are  not  commonly  available,  so  buy  a  spare  driver  and  a  few  more  LED’s  than  you  need.  There  is  about  a  5%  defect  rate.  So  if  you  buy  100  LED’s  you  can  assume  4-5  of  them  will  be  defective  and  won’t  work  or  might  fail  in  the  first  few  days.
 
 What  you  will  need:
 1. LED  (Buy  a  few  more  than  you  need)
 2. Soldering  Iron
 3. Multi-meter  (MUST  HAVE  Don’t  start  building  without  one.)  LINK  Ensure  that  the  multimeter  can  detect  voltage  upto  200V  in  DC  mode.  The  one  I  bought  can  read  upto  1000V  but  practically  we  will  never  encounter  such  high  DC  voltage.
 4. Thermal  GreaseLINK
 5. Super  Glue
 6. Driver  (Buy  a  spare  one)   TIP:  Search  for  "LED  Flood  Light  Driver"  ebay  India  has  lots  of  options
 7. Heat  sink  LINK
 8. Lots  of  free  time
 
 Choosing  a  driver
 LED’s  use  anywhere  between  3.2  to  3.6  volts  depending  the  make,  temperature  etc.  If  connected  in  series,  the  driver  needs  to  supply  the  total  voltage  arrived  at  by  multiplying  3.6  and  the  number  of  LED’s.  
 You  will  usually  get  drivers  that  provide  an  output  of  12,  24  and  36  volts.  Drivers  that  produce  a  higher  voltage  are  very  are  and  usually  provide  300  to  350  mA  of  current  that  is  suitable  for  1w  LED’s.  These  are  usually  giving  an  output  between  100-120  V  DC.  You  can  use  a  Multi-meter  to  check  the  actual  value.
 Each  LED  uses  between  3.2v  to  3.6v.   For  simplicity  let’s  use  the  higher  value  of  3.6v  Passing  a  Current  of  300mA  would  produce  energy  equal  to  one  watt.  
 1Amp  =  1000mA  
 3.6v  multiplied  by  0.300A  =  1.08  watts.  
 3.6  *  0.6  =  2.16  watts  
 3.6  *  0.9  =  3.24  watts  
 A  5W  led  would  need  1400  mA  
 A  10W  led  would  need  2700  mA.  
 When  the  current  increases  the  heat  produced  also  increases,  hence  higher  wattage  LED’s  need  very  good  heat  sinks.  
 Choosing  the  same  LED’s  or  LED’s  with  the  same  wattage  would  help  you  use  the  same  driver  to  drive  them.  LED’s  are  constant  current  devices.  Then  need  a  steady  flow  of  current  that  does  no  change  with  variation  of  temperature  or  Voltage.  The  driver  provides  this  steady  current.  
 The  manufacturer  will  mention  the  rated  voltage  and  current  for  the  LED.  Choose  a  driver  that  matches  this  value.  Depending  upon  the  number  of  LED’s  connected  in  series,  check  the  output  voltage  of  the  Driver.  Like  I  said  earlier,  you  will  not  find  Divers  that  give  you  more  than  36v  DC.  So  if  you  are  planning  to  use  5w  or  10w  LED’s  Plan  to  have  a  max  of  10  LED’s  in  series.  
 I  will  never  recommend  a  parallel  connection  for  LED.  If  you  need  to  use  more  LED’s,  use  a  separate  driver  and  connect  them  in  an  independent  circuit.  
 
 The  Driver  will  adjust  the  voltage  as  per  the  number  of  LED's,  so  if  you  use  8  LED  with  a  36v  Driver  it  is  fine.  But  if  you  use  11  LED  with  a  36v  driver  it  will  not  work.  You  can  use  less  number  of  LED's  but  not  more  that  the  rated  value.  This  will  be  mentioned  on  the  driver.
 
 
 For  more  Information  on  series  V/S  Parallel  LED  connections  read  through  this  ARTICLE
 Read  through  this  to  understand  THERMAL  RUNAWAY
 
 Choose  a  good  quality  Wire  when  driving  5  or  10  w  LED's.  The  driver  supplies  3  Amps  current  which  will  fry  the  thin  wires.  Wires  used  for  wiring  you  home  would  be  a  good.  They  usually  support  between  5  -  10  Amps  current.
 
 
 The  Osram  LED’s  came  with  a  round  base.  LINK
 For  the  red’s  and  blues  I  had  to  buy  the  base  separately.  LINK
 
 The  ratio  of  Red  and  Blue  LED  is  3:1.  For  every  Blue  LED,  ensure  you  have  added  3  red  LED’s.  Now  this  ratio  holds  good  for  a  huge  array.  For  a  small  foot  print  like  I  have,  Just  ensure  the  RED  and  BLUE  cover  the  whole  tank.  So  for  small  tanks  the  Ratio  is  likely  to  be  1:1.
 
 The  first  thing  is  to  test  each  LED  to  check  if  they  are  working  or  not.  The  multi  meter  came  in  handy  for  this  purpose.  Found  out  that  2  Osram  LED’s  are  not  working.  I  forgot  to  separate  them,  and  put  them  back  in  the  same  pile.  I  will  have  to  check  them  again.  Did  not  encounter  them  during  the  build.  You  need  to  check  2  things:
 
 1. Check  if  the  LED’s  are  working:  you  do  this  by  putting  the  multi-meter  in  the  Diode  mode  and  placing  the  contacts  on  the  positive  and  negative  terminals  marked.  The  LED  will  light  up  faintly  since  the  current  is  very  feeble,  This  means  that  the  LED  is  working
 LINK
 2. Check  if  the  Base  of  the  LED  has  a  short:  Put  the  Multi-meter  in  Diode  mode.  DIODE  MODE
 
 Place  the  negative  probe  on  the  bottom  plate.  Place  the  positive  probe  on  the  positive  and  negative  contacts  on  the  base.  If  you  get  a  beep  or  reading  then  the  base  is  faulty,  discard  it.LINK
 
 
 Steps  to  attach  the  LED  to  Star  Base  LINK
 1. Clean  the  bottom  of  the  LED  and  the  Base.  You  can  use  rubbing  alcohol,  I  just  wiped  it  down  with  cloth.
 2. Apply  a  tiny  amount  of  thermal  grease  –  This  will  not  stick  the  LED  to  the  base.  Its  purpose  is  to  provide  a  continuous  medium  to  transfer  the  heat  from  the  LED  to  the  star  Base.  It  has  the  consistency  of  tooth  paste.  It  is  as  sticky  as  tooth  paste  and  will  hold  the  LED  till  you  solder  it.  Gently  press  the  LED  onto  the  thermal  grease
 3. Ensure  to  align  the  positive  and  negative  terminals  correctly  as  marked  on  the  Base.
 4. Solder  the  LED  –  Doing  this  will  permanently  attach  the  LED  to  the  Base.
 Here  I  am  trying  to  check  the  red  LED  after  soldering  it  to  the  star  base.   
 LINK
 
 
 Fixing  the  LED  to  Heat  sink:
 1. Measure  and  Mark  the  locations  where  you  will  place  the  specific  LEDs
 2. Apply  thermal  grease/paste  to  the  Center  of  the  LED  Base  (Not  on  the  heat  sink)  LINK
 3. Press  down  on  the  LED  onto  the  Heat  sink.  The  thermal  grease  will  form  a  thin  layer  between  the  LED  star  BASE  and  the  heat  sink  and  allow  for  transferring  the  heat.
 4. Repeat  for  all  LED’s
 5. Apply  a  tiny  drop  of  Fevi-Quick  on  any  edge  of  the  Base.  This  will  stick  the  LED  to  the  Heat  sink.  This  is  strong  enough  to  prevent  the  LED  from  falling  down  due  to  bumps  and  impacts.  It  also  makes  it  easy  to  remove  the  LED.  Use  a  flat  head  screwdriver  and  lightly  force  it  under  the  base,  this  will  remove  the  LED.
 
 
 
 
 Soldering  the  LED  to  each  other.
 1. Cut  the  wires  slightly  longer  than  the  distance  than  the  distance  between  the  LED.
 2. Strip  the  wires   at  the  edges  by  about  1-2  MM.  
 3. Place  the  wire  and  solder  one  side.  
 4. If  the  wire  is  the  exact  size  soldering  the  other  side  is  extremely  difficult.  If  there  is  some  play  by  using  a  longer  wire  it  is  easier.
 5. Use  as  little  Solder  as  possible.  If  it  spills  over  the  side  then  you  will  have  a  short.  So  be  very  careful  while  doing  so.
 6. Ensure  the  Polarity  is  right  on  all  the  LED’s.  Even  if  one  of  them  is  reversed  it  will  not  work.
 LINK
 
 
 Connect  the  Driver  to  the  first  and  last  LED’s,  you  are  done.  Since  I  am  using  1  W  LED’s  I  know  there  will  not  be  much  heat.  So  I  have  zip  tied  the  Driver  to  the  heat  sink.  You  can  extend  the  wires  and  place  the  Driver  in  a  different  Place
 
 Its  Been  3  weeks  since  I  have  changed  to  LED.  I  will  post  Pictures  of  the  tank  by  the  end  of  the  month.


Last edited by Preeths on Sat Jun 10, 2017 10:58 pm; edited 12 times in total
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hayath_dyno
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 03, 2016 11:19 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal Reply with quote

 Interesting!  Will  be  following  this  Smile
 Thank  you  for  the  detailed  write  up
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KarthikC
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2016 1:06 am Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal Reply with quote

 Thanks  for  this  thread  and  the  detailed  write-up.  Will  watch  this  space.  
 
 Cheers,  
 
 Karthik
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Preejith
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2016 11:01 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal Reply with quote

 what  heat-sink  you  have  used  ?  could  you  give  the  details  ?
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Preeths
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal Reply with quote

 The  heat  sink  came  in  10  feet  length.  Bought  the  whole  thing  and  got  it  cut  to  size.  It's  sold  per  kg.  One  whole  10'  heat  sink  is  about  3.9  Kgs.  
 
 HEAT  SINK
 
 Heat  SINK  FINS
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kapa
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 4:15 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal Reply with quote

 Hi  Preeths,
 Nice  explanation  on  DIY  LED  hood.  Expecting  few  more  things.
 1)  Heat  sink  costing
 2)  Plants  used  in  the  tank
 3)  Type  of  filter  being  installed  alongwith  price
 4)  Finally  Photoperiod  &  fertilization  
 
 Thanks.
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Preeths
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 5:14 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal Reply with quote

                                                   
kapa  wrote  (View  Post):                
Hi  Preeths,
 Nice  explanation  on  DIY  LED  hood.  Expecting  few  more  things.
 1)  Heat  sink  costing
 2)  Plants  used  in  the  tank
 3)  Type  of  filter  being  installed  along  with  price
 4)  Finally  Photoperiod  &  fertilization  
 
 Thanks.                

 
 Heat  sink  cost  250/-  per  KG.  I'm  Quoting  the  price  since  its  DIY  and  is  allowed  as  per  forum  rules.  4  number  of   2  foot  sections  cost  750.
 
 Plants:  
 P.Helfari
 H.  Pinnatifada
 E.  Parvula
 C.  Wendtii
 AR  MINI
 Cyprus  helfari
 Bacopa  carolina
 
 Filter:  Sunsun  303
 
 EI  dosing  -  KNO3,  Kh2PO4  ans  K2SO4...   
 CSM+B  once  a  week.     
 ~20%  water  change  every  week
 lighting:  8  hours  with  a  30  min  break  in  the  middle.
 CO2  comes  on  with  the  lights  approximately  1.5  bps
 This  is  an  established  tank,  I  swapped  the  lighting  from  72W  PLL  to  24  W  LED.
 The  current  feeling  is  that  the  light  is  not  sufficient.
 I  will  post  the  before  and  after  shots  in  3  weeks.  I  want  to  give  the  plants  time  to  adjust  to  the  new  lighting.
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kapa
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 6:00 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal Reply with quote

                                                   
Preeths  wrote  (View  Post):                
                                                 
kapa  wrote  (View  Post):                
Hi  Preeths,
 Nice  explanation  on  DIY  LED  hood.  Expecting  few  more  things.
 1)  Heat  sink  costing
 2)  Plants  used  in  the  tank
 3)  Type  of  filter  being  installed  along  with  price
 4)  Finally  Photoperiod  &  fertilization  
 
 Thanks.                

 
 Heat  sink  cost  250/-  per  KG.  I'm  Quoting  the  price  since  its  DIY  and  is  allowed  as  per  forum  rules.  4  number  of   2  foot  sections  cost  750.
 
 Plants:  
 P.Helfari
 H.  Pinnatifada
 E.  Parvula
 C.  Wendtii
 AR  MINI
 Cyprus  helfari
 Bacopa  carolina
 
 Filter:  Sunsun  303
 
 EI  dosing  -  KNO3,  Kh2PO4  ans  K2SO4...   
 CSM+B  once  a  week.     
 ~20%  water  change  every  week
 lighting:  8  hours  with  a  30  min  break  in  the  middle.
 CO2  comes  on  with  the  lights  approximately  1.5  bps
 This  is  an  established  tank,  I  swapped  the  lighting  from  72W  PLL  to  24  W  LED.
 The  current  feeling  is  that  the  light  is  not  sufficient.
 I  will  post  the  before  and  after  shots  in  3  weeks.  I  want  to  give  the  plants  time  to  adjust  to  the  new  lighting.                

 
 Many  many  thanks,  Preeths.
 Yes,  exactly  light  intensity  seems  to   be  poor.  You  may  add  few  led's  further.
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wads
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 6:11 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal - Completed Reply with quote

 Preeths,
 
 Any  picture  for  plants  growth  post  installation?
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Preeths
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:17 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal - Completed Reply with quote

                                                   
wads  wrote  (View  Post):                
Preeths,
 
 Any  picture  for  plants  growth  post  installation?                

 
 I  will  post  pictures  this  week  end.   I  am  not  satisfied  with  plant  growth,  so  planning  to  move  this  to  a  different  tank  that  is  shallower,  So  hopefully  this  wont  go  to  waste.  One  lesson  learnt:  Buy  good  LED's
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kapa
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Location: shahada/Pune Maharashtra

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 8:56 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal - Completed Reply with quote

                                                   
Preeths  wrote  (View  Post):                
                                                 
wads  wrote  (View  Post):                
Preeths,
 
 Any  picture  for  plants  growth  post  installation?                

 
 I  will  post  pictures  this  week  end.   I  am  not  satisfied  with  plant  growth,  so  planning  to  move  this  to  a  different  tank  that  is  shallower,  So  hopefully  this  wont  go  to  waste.  One  lesson  learnt:  Buy  good  LED's                

 
 Hi  Preeths,
 Don't  get  disappointed,  I  would  like  to  suggest  you  to  add  few  LEDs.  This  might  work.  Ask  to  Nidhi,  he'll  surely  help  you.  Rather  than  spending  to  New  LED  try  to  improve  this.
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Preeths
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 4:43 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal - Completed Reply with quote

                                                   
kapa  wrote  (View  Post):                
                                                 
Preeths  wrote  (View  Post):                
                                                 
wads  wrote  (View  Post):                
Preeths,
 
 Any  picture  for  plants  growth  post  installation?                

 
 I  will  post  pictures  this  week  end.   I  am  not  satisfied  with  plant  growth,  so  planning  to  move  this  to  a  different  tank  that  is  shallower,  So  hopefully  this  wont  go  to  waste.  One  lesson  learnt:  Buy  good  LED's                

 
 Hi  Preeths,
 Don't  get  disappointed,  I  would  like  to  suggest  you  to  add  few  LEDs.  This  might  work.  Ask  to  Nidhi,  he'll  surely  help  you.  Rather  than  spending  to  New  LED  try  to  improve  this.                

 
 I  am  not  disappointed,  I  learnt  a  lot  and  the  LED's  will  do  a  better  job  on  a  smaller  tank.  For  the  current  tank  it  will  go  back  to  PLL  temporarily  until  I  get  some  10  W  cree  XML's.  Suffering  a  vitamin  -  M  deficiency  due  to  Modi  ROFL  ,  so  have  decided  to  buy  the  new  LED  set  and  heat  sinks   later  in  Dec  or  Jan.
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kapa
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 3:26 am Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal - Completed Reply with quote

                                                   
Preeths  wrote  (View  Post):                
                                                 
kapa  wrote  (View  Post):                
                                                 
Preeths  wrote  (View  Post):                
                                                 
wads  wrote  (View  Post):                
Preeths,
 
 Any  picture  for  plants  growth  post  installation?                

 
 I  will  post  pictures  this  week  end.   I  am  not  satisfied  with  plant  growth,  so  planning  to  move  this  to  a  different  tank  that  is  shallower,  So  hopefully  this  wont  go  to  waste.  One  lesson  learnt:  Buy  good  LED's                

 
 Hi  Preeths,
 Don't  get  disappointed,  I  would  like  to  suggest  you  to  add  few  LEDs.  This  might  work.  Ask  to  Nidhi,  he'll  surely  help  you.  Rather  than  spending  to  New  LED  try  to  improve  this.                

 
 I  am  not  disappointed,  I  learnt  a  lot  and  the  LED's  will  do  a  better  job  on  a  smaller  tank.  For  the  current  tank  it  will  go  back  to  PLL  temporarily  until  I  get  some  10  W  cree  XML's.  Suffering  a  vitamin  -  M  deficiency  due  to  Modi  ROFL  ,  so  have  decided  to  buy  the  new  LED  set  and  heat  sinks   later  in  Dec  or  Jan.                

 
 Vitamin  M  Chuckle   Chuckle  Best  luck  bro
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kapa
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 4:53 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal - Completed Reply with quote

                                                   
Preeths  wrote  (View  Post):                
Until  Now  I  had  used  the  10  W  flood  lights  with  some  moderate  success.  I  had  better  plant  growth  when  I  added  red  and  blue  flood  lights  in  addition  to  the  white  ones.  The  60cm/16  gallon  tank  was  running  fine  with  40  watts  of  LED  flood  lights  (2-  white,  1  red  and  1  blue  10w  each).  I  stopped  using  it  since  it  was  looking  unsightly  and  one  of  the  white  LED  driver  conked  out.  The  current  tanks  are  running  on  t8  tube  lights  and  PLL  lights.  I  was  not  satisfied  with  the  PLL’s  and  looking  at  Nidhi’s  Tank  made  me  decide  to  use  LED’s
 
 I  got  the  Osram  1  W  LED’s  off  E-bay.  The  search  led  me  to  get  the  25W  driver.  You  can  check  that  decisions  here  on  this  thread.
 LINK
 
 I  went  looking  for  thermal  grease/paste  on  SP  road,  I  also  found  1W  red  and  Blue  LED’s  and  got  10  each.
 Drivers  and  LED’s  are  not  commonly  available,  so  buy  a  spare  driver  and  a  few  more  LED’s  than  you  need.  There  is  about  a  5%  defect  rate.  So  if  you  buy  100  LED’s  you  can  assume  4-5  of  them  will  be  defective  and  won’t  work  or  might  fail  in  the  first  few  days.
 
 What  you  will  need:
 1. LED  (Buy  a  few  more  than  you  need)
 2. Soldering  Iron
 3. Multi-meter  (MUST  HAVE  Don’t  start  building  without  one.)  LINK  Ensure  that  the  multimeter  can  detect  voltage  upto  200V  in  DC  mode.  The  one  I  bought  can  read  upto  1000V  but  practically  we  will  never  encounter  such  high  DC  voltage.
 4. Thermal  GreaseLINK
 5. Super  Glue
 6. Driver  (Buy  a  spare  one)   TIP:  Search  for  "LED  Flood  Light  Driver"  ebay  India  has  lots  of  options
 7. Heat  sink  LINK
 8. Lots  of  free  time
 
 Choosing  a  driver
 LED’s  use  anywhere  between  3.2  to  3.6  volts  depending  the  make,  temperature  etc.  If  connected  in  series,  the  driver  needs  to  supply  the  total  voltage  arrived  at  by  multiplying  3.6  and  the  number  of  LED’s.  
 You  will  usually  get  drivers  that  provide  an  output  of  12,  24  and  36  volts.  Drivers  that  produce  a  higher  voltage  are  very  are  and  usually  provide  300  to  350  mA  of  current  that  is  suitable  for  1w  LED’s.  These  are  usually  giving  an  output  between  100-120  V  DC.  You  can  use  a  Multi-meter  to  check  the  actual  value.
 Each  LED  uses  between  3.2v  to  3.6v.   For  simplicity  let’s  use  the  higher  value  of  3.6v  Passing  a  Current  of  300mA  would  produce  energy  equal  to  one  watt.  
 1Amp  =  1000mA  
 3.6v  multiplied  by  0.300A  =  1.08  watts.  
 3.6  *  0.6  =  2.16  watts  
 3.6  *  0.9  =  3.24  watts  
 A  5W  led  would  need  1400  mA  
 A  10W  led  would  need  2700  mA.  
 When  the  current  increases  the  heat  produced  also  increases,  hence  higher  wattage  LED’s  need  very  good  heat  sinks.  
 Choosing  the  same  LED’s  or  LED’s  with  the  same  wattage  would  help  you  use  the  same  driver  to  drive  them.  LED’s  are  constant  current  devices.  Then  need  a  steady  flow  of  current  that  does  no  change  with  variation  of  temperature  or  Voltage.  The  driver  provides  this  steady  current.  
 The  manufacturer  will  mention  the  rated  voltage  and  current  for  the  LED.  Choose  a  driver  that  matches  this  value.  Depending  upon  the  number  of  LED’s  connected  in  series,  check  the  output  voltage  of  the  Driver.  Like  I  said  earlier,  you  will  not  find  Divers  that  give  you  more  than  36v  DC.  So  if  you  are  planning  to  use  5w  or  10w  LED’s  Plan  to  have  a  max  of  10  LED’s  in  series.  
 I  will  never  recommend  a  parallel  connection  for  LED.  If  you  need  to  use  more  LED’s,  use  a  separate  driver  and  connect  them  in  an  independent  circuit.  
 
 The  Driver  will  adjust  the  voltage  as  per  the  number  of  LED's,  so  if  you  use  8  LED  with  a  36v  Driver  it  is  fine.  But  if  you  use  11  LED  with  a  36v  driver  it  will  not  work.  You  can  use  less  number  of  LED's  but  not  more  that  the  rated  value.  This  will  be  mentioned  on  the  driver.
 
 
 For  more  Information  on  series  V/S  Parallel  LED  connections  read  through  this  ARTICLE
 Read  through  this  to  understand  THERMAL  RUNAWAY
 
 Choose  a  good  quality  Wire  when  driving  5  or  10  w  LED's.  The  driver  supplies  3  Amps  current  which  will  fry  the  thin  wires.  Wires  used  for  wiring  you  home  would  be  a  good.  They  usually  support  between  5  -  10  Amps  current.
 
 
 The  Osram  LED’s  came  with  a  round  base.  LINK
 For  the  red’s  and  blues  I  had  to  buy  the  base  separately.  LINK
 
 The  ratio  of  Red  and  Blue  LED  is  3:1.  For  every  Blue  LED,  ensure  you  have  added  3  red  LED’s.  Now  this  ratio  holds  good  for  a  huge  array.  For  a  small  foot  print  like  I  have,  Just  ensure  the  RED  and  BLUE  cover  the  whole  tank.  So  for  small  tanks  the  Ratio  is  likely  to  be  1:1.
 
 The  first  thing  is  to  test  each  LED  to  check  if  they  are  working  or  not.  The  multi  meter  came  in  handy  for  this  purpose.  Found  out  that  2  Osram  LED’s  are  not  working.  I  forgot  to  separate  them,  and  put  them  back  in  the  same  pile.  I  will  have  to  check  them  again.  Did  not  encounter  them  during  the  build.  You  need  to  check  2  things:
 
 1. Check  if  the  LED’s  are  working:  you  do  this  by  putting  the  multi-meter  in  the  Diode  mode  and  placing  the  contacts  on  the  positive  and  negative  terminals  marked.  The  LED  will  light  up  faintly  since  the  current  is  very  feeble,  This  means  that  the  LED  is  working
 LINK
 2. Check  if  the  Base  of  the  LED  has  a  short:  Put  the  Multi-meter  in  Diode  mode.  DIODE  MODE
 
 Place  the  negative  probe  on  the  bottom  plate.  Place  the  positive  probe  on  the  positive  and  negative  contacts  on  the  base.  If  you  get  a  beep  or  reading  then  the  base  is  faulty,  discard  it.LINK
 
 
 Steps  to  attach  the  LED  to  Star  Base  LINK
 1. Clean  the  bottom  of  the  LED  and  the  Base.  You  can  use  rubbing  alcohol,  I  just  wiped  it  down  with  cloth.
 2. Apply  a  tiny  amount  of  thermal  grease  –  This  will  not  stick  the  LED  to  the  base.  Its  purpose  is  to  provide  a  continuous  medium  to  transfer  the  heat  from  the  LED  to  the  star  Base.  It  has  the  consistency  of  tooth  paste.  It  is  as  sticky  as  tooth  paste  and  will  hold  the  LED  till  you  solder  it.  Gently  press  the  LED  onto  the  thermal  grease
 3. Ensure  to  align  the  positive  and  negative  terminals  correctly  as  marked  on  the  Base.
 4. Solder  the  LED  –  Doing  this  will  permanently  attach  the  LED  to  the  Base.
 Here  I  am  trying  to  check  the  red  LED  after  soldering  it  to  the  star  base.   
 LINK
 
 
 Fixing  the  LED  to  Heat  sink:
 1. Measure  and  Mark  the  locations  where  you  will  place  the  specific  LEDs
 2. Apply  thermal  grease/paste  to  the  Center  of  the  LED  Base  (Not  on  the  heat  sink)  LINK
 3. Press  down  on  the  LED  onto  the  Heat  sink.  The  thermal  grease  will  form  a  thin  layer  between  the  LED  star  BASE  and  the  heat  sink  and  allow  for  transferring  the  heat.
 4. Repeat  for  all  LED’s
 5. Apply  a  tiny  drop  of  Fevi-Quick  on  any  edge  of  the  Base.  This  will  stick  the  LED  to  the  Heat  sink.  This  is  strong  enough  to  prevent  the  LED  from  falling  down  due  to  bumps  and  impacts.  It  also  makes  it  easy  to  remove  the  LED.  Use  a  flat  head  screwdriver  and  lightly  force  it  under  the  base,  this  will  remove  the  LED.
 
 
 
 
 Soldering  the  LED  to  each  other.
 1. Cut  the  wires  slightly  longer  than  the  distance  than  the  distance  between  the  LED.
 2. Strip  the  wires   at  the  edges  by  about  1-2  MM.  
 3. Place  the  wire  and  solder  one  side.  
 4. If  the  wire  is  the  exact  size  soldering  the  other  side  is  extremely  difficult.  If  there  is  some  play  by  using  a  longer  wire  it  is  easier.
 5. Use  as  little  Solder  as  possible.  If  it  spills  over  the  side  then  you  will  have  a  short.  So  be  very  careful  while  doing  so.
 6. Ensure  the  Polarity  is  right  on  all  the  LED’s.  Even  if  one  of  them  is  reversed  it  will  not  work.
 LINK
 
 
 Connect  the  Driver  to  the  first  and  last  LED’s,  you  are  done.  Since  I  am  using  1  W  LED’s  I  know  there  will  not  be  much  heat.  So  I  have  zip  tied  the  Driver  to  the  heat  sink.  You  can  extend  the  wires  and  place  the  Driver  in  a  different  Place
 
 Its  Been  3  weeks  since  I  have  changed  to  LED.  I  will  post  Pictures  of  the  tank  by  the  end  of  the  month.                

 
 Preeths  I  have  few  doubts  please  go  through  this:
 As  I  have  decided  to  use  5W   Ultrabright  CREE  XTE  LED  it  requires  DC  Forward  Voltage  (VF):  3.2V  -  3.4Vdc  &  DC  Forward  Current  (IF):  350mA  -  1500mA
 1)  So  does  it  mean  3A  36V  driver  can  operate   10  LEDs  (assuming  LEDs  are  connected  in  series  &  voltage  drop  across  each  led  3.4v  but  how  can  3A  can  operate  10LEDs  as  each  LED  require  1.5A  ?  As  series  combination  divide  voltage  while  parallel  divide  current,  so  how  could  specified  driver  operate  more  than  2  LEDs.  Even  if  keeping  in  mind  3A  o/p  current  we  connect  2  LEDs  don't  it  will  get  burnt  both  the  LEDs  as  12v>>  Forward  Voltage  3.2V  -  3.4Vdc  
 
 2)These  statement  is  from  your  comment:  The  Driver  will  adjust  the  voltage  as  per  the  number  of  LED's,  so  if  you  use  8  LED  with  a  36v  Driver  it  is  fine.  But  if  you  use  11  LED  with  a  36v  driver  it  will  not  work.  You  can  use  less  number  of  LED's  but  not  more  that  the  rated  value.  How  it  is  possible  ?
 
 3)Is  there  any  remedy  to  make  SMPS  as  constant  current  (CC)  source  ?
 
 Experts  are  welcome  to  comment
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Preeths
Committed Member of IAH
Committed Member of IAH



Joined: Nov 07, 2007
Posts: 1938
Location: Bangalore

Status: Offline
PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:00 pm Post subject: Re: LED Build Journal - Completed Reply with quote

 1.  You  need  a  driver  that  supplies  1500mA  and  36V  current.  A  3000mA  36V  driver  will  burn  the  LED's  (I'm  assuming  you  will  use  10  LEDs)
 
 2.  Each  LED  will  cause  a  voltage  drop  0f  3.6  volts.  Since  the  LED  is  a  semiconductor,  this  minimum  voltage  is  needed.  In  a  series  connection  when  you  have  8  LED's  the  voltage  drop  is  28.8v.  The  Voltage  supplied  by  the  driver  is  36v  which  is  more  than  required,  hence  it  works.  With  11  led's  the  voltage  required  is  39.6v  This  is  more  than  the  capacity  of  the  driver,  hence  it  will  not  light  up.
 
 3.  use  DC-DC  converters,  but  you  won't  get  the  exact  match.
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